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Edomae Sushi: The Birth of Nigiri

How Nigiri Sushi Began

During the Edo period, Edo (modern Tokyo) was a bustling city. The Sumida River served as the lifeline for lumber distribution in a city often struck by fires. Strong laborers worked along its banks, while lively geisha and entertainers brought energy to the area's nightlife with riverboat banquets, theater districts in Asakusa, and sumo matches in Ryogoku. Street stalls and food vendors thrived in this vibrant atmosphere.
The people of Edo were famously impatient. Quick meals became part of the city's culture. Rice bowls topped with ingredients were invented for fast eating, soba noodles evolved into the quick-cooking soba we know today, and sushi too began to change.
Originally, sushi was prepared as hako-zushi (pressed sushi in large boxes). Then, a sushi vendor named Hanaya Yohei in Ryogoku introduced a new idea: serving pieces cut individually so people could eat what they wanted right away. With no need for long preparation, sushi could be eaten immediately.
From there, the idea evolved: rather than cutting sushi from a box, why not shape the rice and toppings by hand for each customer? This innovation gave birth to nigiri-zushi-the style we now call Edomae sushi. It was fast, stylish, and perfectly suited to Edo's impatient city-dwellers.
At food stalls, men would eat sushi quickly while standing. But when dining with women, restaurants with seats and roofs became popular. Nigiri sushi, with its elegant appearance and lively conversation, was even considered ideal for dates in Edo times.
Although luxurious sushi restaurants declined during the Tenpō Reforms of the 1840s, Edomae sushi survived through the Meiji era, wartime hardships, and into the present day.

The Flavors of Edomae

The name "Edomae" refers to the seafood caught in Edo Bay, today's Tokyo Bay. Classic Edomae sushi includes not only nigiri but also simple rolls such as kampyō-maki (dried gourd roll), tekka-maki (tuna roll), negi-toro-maki (tuna with green onion), natto-maki, and kappa-maki (cucumber roll).
But the true charm of Edomae sushi lies in its seasonal ingredients.
  • Spring to summer: clams such as aoyagi and torigai
  • Autumn to winter: akagai (ark shell) and scallops
  • Winter to spring: hamaguri (hard clams)
  • Year-round favorites: tuna, abalone, shrimp, octopus, squid, sea urchin, flounder
Other highlights include:
  • Spring: sayori (halfbeak) and shirauo (icefish)
  • Summer: aji (horse mackerel), young kohada, and bonito at its peak
  • Autumn: mackerel, sardines, and kohada
  • Winter: yellowtail, amberjack, flounder, and sea bream
And of course, anago (sea eel)-beloved in the hot summer months as a lighter alternative to unagi. Altogether, Edomae sushi offers more than 50 varieties, each prepared with subtle techniques to highlight flavor, texture, and presentation.

Edomae Sushi Today
Interestingly, salmon was never part of traditional Edomae sushi. Some traditional chefs still insist that "salmon belongs in conveyor-belt sushi, not at the Edomae counter."
However, in recent years, even sushi schools and culinary academies in Japan teach salmon nigiri. This is not without reason-salmon is the most approachable raw fish for many foreigners and is widely available worldwide. For aspiring chefs looking to work internationally, it has become an essential skill. Whether you wish to master scallops, squid, or even salmon, the essence remains the same: Edomae sushi is about craftsmanship, seasonality, and the joy of savoring each piece as a complete experience.

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